How lucky can you get? Three years ago my youngest daughter and her husband decided to up sticks and go and live in France. Lucky for them, yes. But even luckier for me. Now I had a perfect reason to take advantage of the cheapo air fairs from Stanstead to Carcasonne or Heathrow to Toulouse for slightly more. They ended up very close to the canal, close enough for an evening stroll. What a relevation!
Not only can you save a 1,000 nautical miles and an anxious crossing of the Bay of Biscay. This canal route to the Med has been an alternative for over 300 years. It is also one of the oldest waterways in France. I had heard about it in the past but often in negative tones with tales of shallow water and a lack of mooring spaces. The notion of making it all the way had a certain element of fantasy. Not so. From my observations and chats with several boats flying the Red Ensign I discovered that not only is it possible but it is also a very enjoyable experience. Certainly if you consider the dimensions of Rick's transport you should be OK with a not so modest cruising boat, motor or sail. You will of course have to step the mast, air draught, rather than water draught will be the problem.
The canal itself from Toulouse to Séte is 240km in length, and has 63 locks. Séte is your entrance to the sea. To get to Toulouse you will probably have entered the waterways system at Royan on to Pauillac, probably the best place to unstep the mast, You then pass through Bordeaux and then to Toulouse. A link between the Atlantic and the Mediterranean had been a dream for centuries, finally realised by Pierre-Paul Riquet a man with no engineering skills but a very great determination. He was sure that the essential element of a steady and reliable supply of water could be found in the numerous streams running down from the surrounding mountains.
If you decide to investigate further one thing you must do before leaving is to pass a written test to obtain a CEVNI certificate. The RYA can supply the names of examiners in the UK who administer this confirmation of competence in inland navigation.
If you decide to do a flying visit before taking your own boat you could contact Crown Blue Lines at Castelnaudary who operate a hire fleet, I believe they are associated with Sunsail in the UK. Interestingly with typical French pragmatism the CEVNI certificate requirement is waived for boat hirers. The canal will have its fill of holiday makers not all of whom will be experienced boating persons. You are therefore guaranteed the hilarity that arises from entering and leaving locks, often with an appreciative audience who in the main being French will not let it be seen that you are being watched. Much too undignified. You of course are free to enjoy it. Going through a lock of course is not always easy. Lack of steerage at low speed and if there is wind about then control is difficult. But there are compensations. This being France, as Rick Stein demonstrated, there are opportunities to purchase wonderful local food and wine, sometimes from the lockkeepers wives. Although there are few canal side restaurants, short trips to nearby villages will satisfy your appetite and the finest palate.
All of the locks have their attendant keepers they are I'm told consistently friendly and helpful but not always knowledgable beyond the business of getting you in and out of their patch, They don't seem to navigate the canals themselves, regarding their responsibility to be strictly local. Not that you are likely to be bothered. Do I look bothered? No you will be enjoying the wonderful scenery, the tranquillity and the knowledge that you are not at sea in horrible weather, that you have saved a 1000 nautical miles and that soon, but not too soon you will enter the Mediterranean Sea. What a wonderful way to go….
