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Steeped in history. Gravelines the way old maps show it
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Now is the time to start thinking about our cruising plans for the coming season. This contribution describes a hop across the channel, maybe it will spark your thoughts for a similar passage.
It seems a while ago now but the short trip to Gravelines, made toward the end of the summer, still figures just as powerfully in the memory as the more prolonged cruise to Holland a little earlier in the season. For such a brief period away that is an impressive achievement and gives hope to those with working commitments that prevent extended periods sailing.
The four of us plus our Freedom ketch of some 35 feet departed Ramsgate on the Saturday intending to return, after our stint in France, on the Monday. The original plan, though, had been to depart the Thursday or Friday, but the wind had been too strong. We began to wonder if we would ever get away. At the last possible moment the wind did decrease and from then on the whole trip was the sweeter for the wonderful weather we enjoyed. Although it was early September the sun was still hot and the wind remained light, blowing from a direction that aided the passage giving us a steady speed of about six knots to reach our destination in good time and, we hoped, at the right point of the tide to enter harbour.
As it was we arrived early but hove-to not far off the entrance for an hour and a half until we judged the tide high enough to navigate the shallow channel, passing the lock gates to moor at the first pontoon of the marina as directed by the harbourmaster.
We found ourselves in the company of a number of other British boats whose arrival synchronised with our own. Over the next hour the numbers swelled until there were about fifteen red or blue ensigns being tugged gently by the light breeze. Two sailing clubs had decided on Gravelines as their meeting place for quite separate rallies on the same weekend. We were part of the contingent from the Cruising Association while the other boats were from the Upnor Sailing Club. The harbourmaster had everything under control and what could have been a jumble of boats and confused commands was a model of order and good seamanship.
I'm sure being part of such a contingent made for a stronger impression than would otherwise have been the case and was one reason why the cruise was such a success. But this is not to downplay the town itself. We found it to be a delightful place with its fine Vauban fortifications, moats, cafés and restaurants. It was generally agreed aboard ship that the restaurant meal, on the Saturday night, with our Cruising Association friends was superb.
The Sunday was a perfect day. The town was quiet and full of sunshine. Taking our ease at a café we drank drinks and talked a good part of the morning away. Later, we explored the fort and admired the public art on display - a series of statues, observations of the human form that includes and lays bare imperfections. It seemed honest in that sense and as such was sympathetic and engaging.
Everything added up to more than the sum of the parts. As sailing goes it was not a Southern Ocean situation but it did nevertheless have its own particular charm. Setting off at half past six the next morning the wind was very light and we had to motor. At midday we arrived back where we started, at Ramsgate. We simply basked in the sunshine.
