Cruising the Sweet Saronic

Greece has always been a popular destination for those who wish to spend their summer afloat, and though it is the Ionian that has often been seen as the traditional playground for British cruisers, adventurous types should also consider looking further east. We've been based in the Saronic Gulf, close to Athens, for four years now, and have yet to tire of its engaging charms.

The Places To See

Despite its proximity to the busy capital, the landscape and surrounding seas have remained remarkably unspoilt. With a good knowledge of the area it's quite possible to sail in the stunning scenery of mid-summer and see only a handful of other yachts. Unlike the Ionian, few flotillas operate here. You won't arrive at a port to find 40 small yachts tied up and the quayside full of British accents.

That's not to say of course that there aren't plenty of boats to be found in the Saronic; hundreds of charter yachts and a good number of wealthy Athenians in huge power boats can often be seen racing each other to their favourite spots. The secret to happy sailing here is to avoid the crowds. Realise that the majority of boats head for the same few places on the same few nights, and make sure you stay clear.

For instance, if you want to visit a busy and popular port such as Hydra, try to avoid the mayhem of the weekend. If that's not possible, then why not anchor in a nearby bay and take a water-taxi to the port, rather than joining the carnage in the harbour?

The Saronic will not suit everyone. It's an area that has remained very traditionally Greek, so if your idea of cruising involves hops between comfortable marinas, then this isn't for you. On the other hand, if you're happy to tie up at a town quay in a small port or fishing village (often for free), and enjoy spending nights at anchor under the stars, then this rustic region is made for you.

Proper facilities for visiting yachts are few and far between, however you'll come across places, such as the tiny village of Vathi, that are unexpectedly well prepared. Nestled beneath the volcanic peninsula of Methana, this small fishing port provides ample water, shore-power, and a helpful harbourmaster. Here you can literally step from your gangplank into the taverna, and when the fishing boats come in, you'll see the very fish you will choose from for dinner going straight into the freezer.

A personal favourite is the town of Ermioni. Attractive and laid back, with regular ferries to Athens, it's a perfect place to change crew in summer. From here, one can head west to sail the nearby Argolic Gulf. For those who have only experienced the crowded waters of the southern UK, the Argolic in mid-summer will be a real eye-opener.

On the far side of the Gulf are towering mountains, with picturesque villages and sheltered anchorages at their feet. Take a taxi into the hills to visit the local town or even the monastery. Both are built high inland where the temperature, usually several degrees cooler there than the stifling air at sea-level, comes as a welcome relief.

The attractive city of Navplion is situated at the northern tip of the Argolic Gulf. It's a delightful place, although the harbour can develop its own pungent aroma in hot weather. A trip from here down to stunning Monemvasia in the south is a journey that you won't easily forget. The old town sits, somewhat Gibraltar-like, on a small rocky islet joined to the mainland by a causeway.

From the Saronic you can also sail to the Cyclades. Go in the spring to avoid the Meltemi and you'll find a profusion of wild flowers transforming these normally barren islands.

Historic Sites

This is the region that saw the birth of civilisation, so it is obviously abound with history and has plenty of sites worth visiting. The Sanctuary of Aphaia on Aegina has its own unique atmosphere, whilst attending a performance in the ancient amphitheatre of Epidavros is an experience not to be missed.

Getting There

The Saronic is easily accessible from Athens airport, via airport bus and ferry. The budget-conscious should book well ahead with Easyjet, Excel or Air Scotland for low prices. For fixed date summer return flights, it's worth keeping an eye out for British Airways, where you can often pick up surprising bargains.

Where to Keep Your Boat

You'll need deep pockets for the marinas around Athens, but better service and value for money can be found by heading for the islands or the mainland region of Peloponese.

The best places to leave your yacht afloat in the summer are Frank's Boatyard in Porto Kheli, which offers lift-out and repairs, or Poros Yachting in Poros. Both have sheltered bays with swinging moorings available. You can arrange for them to check on your yacht while you're away, and bring her into the pier ready for your return. For wintering, there are boatyards on the island of Aegina, around 40 minutes by hydrofoil from Piraeus. Jordan Kanonis offers good prices and is pleasant and helpful, whilst larger yachts should try Planaco Shipyard. There is also a lovely new boatyard at Koiladhia, on the east coast of the Argolic.

Buying Equipment & Having Work Done

The Saronic has several chandleries, and the proximity to Piraeus makes it possible to either hop onto a hydrofoil to get parts, or to have them sent from Athens. Electronic equipment and outboards are typically expensive, yet non-electrical equipment, repairs and labour costs are relatively cheap, with new sails and canvas-work often proving to be good value. It's also always a good idea to ask around for recommendations.

Greek workmanship can be excellent, but it pays to be on site to oversee the work. You must also remember that there is no Greek word with quite the same sense of urgency as 'manyana', and appointments are usually made in GMT (Greek Maybe Time).

Who Is it For?

The Saronic is ideal for people who want to sail in the sunshine while remaining in the EU. Greece is too far away for weekend trips, but if you are in the lucky position of being able to spend several months a year on board it could suit you very well indeed. I also know of several syndicate yachts that have been based here very successfully.

To enjoy Greece you probably need to be fairly outgoing, and to remain calm and not easily upset when things don't quite go according to plan. The Greeks are generally a friendly and hospitable people, but beware of those bearing too many gifts!

	Melody McKay Burton

Melody and her husband, George, an RYA Yachtmaster Instructor, owned and sailed a UFO 31 on the West of Scotland for many years. One autumn she took some friends sailing in the Ionian and discovered that it was possible to spend a week on a yacht without oilskins. Inspired by their trip, Melody gave up her job as an IT consultant in 2001 and she, George, and their two dogs, moved to Greece where they bought a 44ft Atlantic sloop. They have sailed most of the Greek waters, and now offer skippered sailing holidays and run Aegean Sailing School, an RYA recognised training centre based on Aegina Island in the Saronic Gulf. Email:melody@aegeansailingschool.com Websites:www.aegeansailingschool.com and www.sailvalentine.com