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 MAINTENANCE 01 / 02 / 07
 

Go-faster effort worthwhile

Vacuum scraper
This Mailspeed scraper connects to a vacuum cleaner to collect toxic residue

At this time of year boatyards everywhere are full of people examining, chipping, sanding and even painting the bottoms of their boats.

Dedicated racing types will be removing every last trace of last year's antifouling to create a perfect surface to start again. Then they will prime, put on a coat or two of expensive antifoul and then rub it back with wet and dry to create the smoothest finish possible.

To diehard cruising types, this no doubt seems a lot of unnecessary work and fuss, not to mention an appalling waste. Why put the costly stuff on and then rub half of it off before you have even launched? Can it really make all that much difference?

The answer is: yes, it can. Nobody would spend all those freezing hours doing such hard, unpleasant work if it didn't. A smooth finish really will make the boat go faster. If you're “only” cruising, you may not want to go to such extremes, but it's worth taking something from the racing approach.

Face mask
Wear a face mask to avoid inhaling old antifoul as you remove it

The uneven bottom finish that inevitably results where successive years' coats are applied on top of each other will knock a significant fraction off the boat's speed, under sail or power. So it's worth getting as smooth a bottom finish as you reasonably can. You will get more enjoyment out of your boat under sail. And you will increase fuel economy under power.

There is also anecdotal evidence that racing boats, which normally have only a thin coat of antifoul, removed annually allowing the hull to dry properly during the winter lay-up, are less prone to the dreaded osmosis than cruising boats which may have several years' accumulation of paint, providing a thick coat that may trap moisture against the hull, preventing it from ever drying completely.

Most cruising boat owners won't want to take all the antifoul off every year, but it's worth tackling the job every few seasons, to keep the build-up under control. So what's the best way to get it off - scraping, sanding or stripping?
Tunsten carbide scraper
Look out for a scraper with tungsten carbide blades

Using a scraper - the slightly more expensive tungsten carbide ones are most effective - is hard work. It must be done with care, to avoid damage to the underlying gel coat, but does a very thorough job. Chemical strippers save effort but are messy and only feasible if you have access to a hosepipe on the hardstanding, to rinse away the residue.

Some boatyards offer slurry spraying, a mild form of shot blasting, which should take off all the old antifoul without damaging the hull underneath. But this is relatively expensive.

So many people resort to the electric sander. But remember that antifoul is intrinsically toxic - that's how it works - and you must avoid inhaling or ingesting any of the dust. So use a sander with a suction device to trap the residue, and wear a face mask and goggles whichever method you use.

Old antifoul is harmful to the environment as well, so if scraping or stripping ideally you should spread a sheet of polythene under the area you are working on to catch any residue, and then dispose of it appropriately - not by washing it into the river!

If your boat is a few years old, some of the accumulated layers of antifoul may include substances now banned, like TBT, now known to cause havoc to marine ecology. This makes responsible disposal even more important.
Filled and faired
It's worth spending time filling and fairing

Once all the old antifoul is off, it's worth spending time filling and fairing before you start again with a new coat. Make the hull keel join as smooth as possible, and sort out any rust patches on the keel. Every little helps.

It's all hard work, which has to be done outdoors, during the worst of the winter weather, but the effort will seem well worth it once afloat, when your boat slips smoothly and speedily along.

Once you've done all the preparation, next comes the difficult decision: which type of antifoul to put on? We'll be looking at that in another article.



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Discuss this article, 1 of 4 messages, read more:
Alan Hazlewood 
Posted: 08/02/07 21:37:14 14
For the last fifteen years or so, since I gave up racing, I have used a leeching antifoul, initially Micron but latterly Blakes Tiger, or Cruiser. Within one week of lifting out, whilst the hull paint was still soft, the hull was well rubbed down using abrasive pads with plenty of water. This is far better than trying to get the stuff off in the spring when it has hardened off. We never went right back to the gel coat but found this method prevented build up of antifoul. If a water supply is not avaiable, buy a pump-up pressure garden spray from B&Q or garden centre. A full tank will last long enough to do about a third of one side of a Sadler 32. Come fitting out time, just wash the hull, antifoul and then go sailing! That is, of course, ...
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