The teak interior of my recently purchased Verl 900 had been maintained to a high standard by the previous owner. He used a mixture of Linseed oil, white spirit and methelayted spirit in the ratio; 70% Linseed oil 20% white spirit 10% Meths. I will be trying this mixture in the near future and will update the forum with my results. Just curious to see if anyone else uses this or any other home made cleaner.
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Well I've done most of the wood and so far so good. Easy to make and is similar to the instructions on the rear of the Raw Linseed Oil bottle bought from Jewsons, which suggested mixing the oil with turps. For info I used 500ml Raw Linseed Oil, 143ml white spirit and 72ml meths, in total just over 700ml for under a fiver.
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 | TMS Poloshirt winner |
26/03/08 19:57
When I was a kid we had lovely oak panellling in my parents house, my mother used exactly the same mixture to oil the oak, it always looked lovely! However we never tried chucking salt water at it!
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| TMS Poloshirt winner |
26/03/08 20:38
 Would you put this stuff on seating - I would be afraid of valued wife and guests kicking up if their nice clothes ended up stained from this gunk. I thought the best treatment for teak was nothing but water and aq sponge?
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I have and will only be using it for interior woodwork and from what I have seen so far water just bounces off the wood after treatment.
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I use 50% sewing machine oil and 50% white spirit. This is the Nautor formula and gives a warm lustre after wire wooling.
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| TMS Poloshirt winner |
14/04/08 21:29
 What's the idea of the white spirit and meths? - to get the oil to soak in better?
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I believe the white spirit thins the oil helping it penetrate the wood, the meths may do the same but will evaporate quicker. The mixture certainly works and if not over used leaves no residue.
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| TMS Poloshirt winner |
15/04/08 15:31
 I have a new teak toe rail. It is obviously very open to the elements and gets continuosly soaked with salt water in a sea. If oiling this, would you use the same mixture? Would you mask up to avoid getting mixture on GRP? Anthony.. I have cleaned the rest of my teak around the cockpit where people either sit or rub with their clothing with oxalic acid. (as/juice from the rhubarb leaf) It is readily available via the internet and rids the teak of all stains. It requires reasonable care and attention and should be treated as one would a domestic bleach. So, I tend to rinse off thoroughly after just a few minutes and I put a lot of water down the cockpit drains to rinse thoroughly. I also wear protective glasses and gloves in case of splashes. After 3 years use I have found no problems with its use. The alternative to this in the cockpit is varnish. The one I would thoroughly recommend is Le Tonkinois. (easily available via internet)
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| Edited: 15/04/08 15:32 |
| TMS Poloshirt winner |
15/04/08 16:10
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| TMS Poloshirt winner |
15/04/08 16:58
Thanks Scotty, very interesting. I actually have an Oxalic acid preparation in a 'jelly' format called (I think) YM10. I think I'll try a samll patch to see if it works.
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 We don't put anything on our teak deck or toe rail. I rather like the silvery colour they go when weathered, and am afraid that many of the proprietory cleaners, which restore the "as new" look, shorten the life of the teak. (I was told by a Swan owner that he regards his teak deck as "semi-disposable" and expects to replace it every ten years or so!) When the decks go a bit green in damp weather, I don't use anything stronger than a sponge to clean them. We have found the best cleaner is salt water. A good bash to windward cleans the teak better than anything. (The decks were immaculate after the Fastnet storm!) And even a sponge down with salt water in the marina helps. We do find however that teak is intrinsically more "grubby" than white fibreglass. Trouser seats and genoa sheets get dirtier on the teak decks of this boat than they did on the plastic decks of the last one. Whether it is the natural oil in the wood, or black from the caulking that is to blame I don't know. This year as an experiment we have put teak oil on the cockpit gratings, and at the moment they are a rather nice warm red colour, but it remains to be seen how they will look after a season's wear and weather.
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| TMS Poloshirt winner |
16/04/08 14:02
The sad thing is that every non-sailing guest on the boat seems to ask when I'm going to 'do something' with the teak.They seem to view every unvarnished/stained piece of wood as uncared for. Like Cathy I like the silver colour of clean weathered teak.
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Hi All No teak on my little "Felicity" by Hurley 1964. However, Lastyear I cleaned of and treated all woodwork, mostly mahogany, with a new product called "Patina". Comes in a flat tin and you put it on with a cloth or sponge (don.t throw away the cloth after use as it will contain a good soaking of the gelly, I just keep it in the tin for next time) She has travelled a reasonable amount of sea miles in all sorts of weather and she does not come out except for a couple of hours antifouling and the wood still looks as if it has only just been done. None of it comes off onto clothing or ropes as far as we have seen. I like the stuff as it xoesn.t need doing over for a very long time. About £12 a tin as I remember.
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| TMS Poloshirt winner |
18/04/08 00:25
I have used Le Tonkinois varnish with superb results. Has anyone used this Le Tonkinois product on their teak? It was on a German chandlers website http://www.svb.de/index.php?sid=df7cee0925fb5a422ae49dd640406283&cl=details&cnid=11992&anid=116995 description: Special impregnationoil for teak and garden furniture, glazes. Undercoat for LE TONKINOIS, suitable for all species of wood. Rubbing-resistant and quickly drying, guarantees an effective long time protection, improves in appearance and hardens the wood. Especially resistant to salted water. Consumption: 25 qm per litre.
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| Edited: 18/04/08 00:30 |
This article has prompted a good number of replies but am I correct that the original one by David Armstrong was used on varnished interior wood? as others then talk of uncoated rubbing strips and exterior woodwork. Would it work on previously polished wood, and if so how long does it take to dry? I have recently purchased "teak oil for garden furniture" from my local Macro store, and have coated the cockpit sole gratings on our boat but do not how long the protection will last.
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| TMS Poloshirt winner |
18/04/08 12:35
Hi David I think you would be advised to ensure that all the polish was removed before applying any other finish, and even to rub down in the direction of the grain with a fine grade glass paper or fine wet n' dry abrasive paper to ensure the next finish you apply is 'keyed on'. With traditional varnishes white spirit or turps substitute is usually used to wipe over before varnishing to remove dirt, dust etc. and can be used as a thinner for traditional varnishes too. Scotty
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Reply to David Calvert: I used the mixture as per post 1 on previously polished, not varnished, interior wood. It has worked a treat and by the time I had got to the end of the wood the first part had dried. Hope this helps. I already had the meths and white spirit so all I had to buy was some Linseed oil. Not a great outlay and the result in my opinion was well worth the money. If you try it and don't like it, change it and use something else, all you can loose it the cost of the ingredients.
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