I have an ETAP 23 which after a prolonged winter refit is now ready to re-enter the water but I also need to step the mast.  I took it down by the simple method of finding lots of chums with long and strong arms, which was fine but clumsy and probably not particulary well controlled.  I have heard of methods using the boom, a gin pole and a pair of sheer legs but it is hard to get the detailed procedure of these methods to assess the optimum method.

Does anyone have any advice or details of how/which is best etc

Many thanks

Use the boom & pole as an "A" frame stand their bases (lashed in position) near the chain plates.

Do not attach any bottlescrews (turnbuckles as out North American cousins call them) until the mast is upright (just use lashings in their place) as you will bend them!.

Take a halyard from the hounds, over the "A" frame standing upright,  through a block at the stem and onto a winch. Start winding get a couple of guys under the mast to start it going up and it'll go up fine.

Choose a nice calm day though!

David

Very many thanks indeed for this

I would caution against just hauling it up to the improvised A frame - as there is no transverse control with this.

BUT if you lift the mast via the spreader hounds without base fitted to pivot, then you may be able to complete without stressing the base mount. The A frame being immediately above base pivot point will then allow you to fit the pin / bolt and secure. Assuming pole and boom are long enough !

Usual A frame method is to have A frame rise with mast closely coupled so as to stop mast falling of to side etc. and stressing the pivot base. It is even more important if you have the blade type base fitting and not the substantial tabernacle type. But to do this A frame basically has to be at same pivot level as mast base if mast is pivoting, not necessary if mast spreader height is less than boom / pole height of A frame.

I have to lower / raise me mast a number of times each season to get under town bridge. I've tried allsorts - even spinny pole as extension to front of mast (very nearly bent mast that time !!). Final solution was to make sure I have 4 good guys stationed appropriately with stays / mast in "hand" and stout line from windlass made of to forestay to control lowering.

Compass24 have a mast "derrick" system which is not cheap but solves this problem.  

You've probably done it by now, but on the Etap 21, you can provide lateral support by tying the main and genoa halyards to the stanchions that support the guard rails. Etap have cunningly arranged the top of the stanchions exactly in line and level with the pivot point on the tabernacle.

Then you can use the strong helpers method to lift the mast, with the final bit done by pulling down on the forestay.

Alternatively, I do it single-handed using a timber spar with a home-made bracket that engages with the mast pivot ( presumably could use a spinnaker pole), then proceed as follows

1. Tie mainsail halyard and genoa halyard to stanchions, winch tight and cleat
2. Attach lower shrouds to chainplates, but keep them slack
3. Attach backstay to pushpit – keep loose
4. Attach a pulley block to bow chainplate
5. Fix lifting line from winch through block to top end of raising spar
6. Attach rope loop to upper shackle (hook-loop thingy) on mast
7. Rig raising spar - secure laterally to stanchions and secure to loop on mast shackle
8. To raise, ensure that lifting line is through cleat, around winch and within reach
9. Lift the mast by hand, tension the lifting line and cleat off
10. Continue to raise mast with lifting line on winch, ensuring Furlex doesn’t foul on anything
11. When vertical, secure mast with a further line to pulpit/ cleat. Lifting line can then be removed.
12. Attach forestay/ Furlex to chainplate.
13. Attach upper shrouds to chainplates